We’ve all heard this comment: “Wow you look well you have such a lovely tan” …
Please read on if you want to understand the truth about a tan!
Obviously, everything is a choice, but I think its good to understand more about the effects of the sun, tanning and SPF, so you can make an informed choice.
I now, will no longer sit in the sun and wear at least an SPF 30 everyday all year round. Here’s why…
WHAT IS A TAN?
When you have a tan, a chemical process has happened within your skin to try and protect itself from Cellular DNA damage. A tan literally is a defence mechanism against the sun.
Typically, in the western world, a golden tan or sun kissed glow, has been associated with our mood, confidence, signs of health and youth but perhaps the only safe tan, is a fake tan!
Unfortunately, a lot of the damage is done to our skin in our childhood, so protecting our children is vital. Years ago, the importance of wearing SPF wasn’t as well known, we can’t undo this damage, however, it’s never too early or too late to wear sunscreen and prevent further skin damage.
WHY IS THE SUN DETRIMENTAL TO THE SKIN?
The sun emits 2 main types of UV rays: UVA and UVB. To help you identify the two:
UVA – Ageing rays
UVB – Burning rays
UVA rays are longer in length, these don’t cause burning but penetrate deeper in the skin causing ageing, increasing pigment and potential skin cancers. These account for 95% of the rays that reach the earth, these are the same strength all year round. Which is why you need to wear an SPF all year round.
UVB rays are shorter in length, they cause burning and skin damage. They can alter skin cell structure and can also lead to skin cancer.
UVC doesn’t penetrate the atmosphere, so you don’t need to look for protection on this.
WHAT DOES THE SPF NUMBER MEAN?
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor; it tells you how long it would take for your skin to burn from UVB rays when you have SPF on, versus when you don’t have it on.
For example, if you wear SPF 50, it will take approximately 50 times longer for you to get burned than if you didn’t apply SPF.
It’s hard to know what your natural burn type is but for most people an SPF30 is sufficient for daily wear, however, if you are spending periods of time outside, go higher.
Technically there is only a 1% difference in the level of UVB protection between an SPF 50 vs SPF 30, however, science has looked at the collective effect of wearing a higher SPF regularly and it does have cumulative benefits.
DOES DIFFERENT SKIN HAVE DIFFERENT MELANIN?
Yes, they do.
The Fitzpatrick Scale in dermatology indicates that there are 6 main types to classify a person's complexion in relation to their tolerance to sunlight.
Phototype 1: very pale skin (redheads), always burns, never tans, many freckles.
Phototype 2: fair skin, always burns, sometimes achieves a slight glow, many freckles.
Phototype 3: fair to dark skin, sometimes burns, always tans (medium tan), some freckles.
Phototype 4: dark skin, never burns, always tans (dark tan), no freckles.
Phototype 5: brown skin, never burns, always tans (very dark tan), no freckles.
Phototype 6: black skin, never burns, no freckles.
Phototypes types I-3 are characterized by light skin (red, pink and yellow undertone) with a high likelihood of sun burn due to the high concentration of pheomelanin. It responds to UV rays by triggering a state of oxidation that causes damage to the skin.
Phototypes types 4-6 have higher eumelanin and therefore have a darker (brown/black) complexion and less likely to burn. Black skins typically have a natural SPF of around 13. Although dark-skinned people won’t get sunburned as quickly, they will still burn and are still susceptible to sun-induced damage such as age spots, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, melasma, wrinkles and skin cancer.
HOW DOES A SUNSCREEN PROTECT ME?
SPF also known as sunscreen, sunblock or sun cream, is a photoprotective topically applied product for the skin that absorbs or reflects some of the suns UV rays. It can come in the form of creams, lotions, sprays, gels, foams and balms.
There are two main types of ingredients that work in SPFs to protect you, these are:
Chemical Filters - They absorb UV rays and produce heat by breaking them down in the skin.
Physical Filters - These are either Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide, they reflect UV rays as well as absorb them.
There has been lots of discussions about which are more effective, and which ones are ‘healthier’ for the skin. The truth is both mostly work the same, only about 10% of UV light is scattered the rest is absorbed.
What’s more important is to look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen, typically this will incorporate both.
As a general guide you could:
Use more chemical sunscreen if you want a less of white cast on the skin
Use more physical sunscreen if you have irritation and skin sensitivity.
That said, technologies in sunscreen are always evolving which makes this easier in both issues.
UVA
So, we know SPF literally means how well the sunscreen will protect you against the burning UVB rays. When looking for UVA protection in your sunscreen this isn’t as obvious due to the lack of universally agreed way to rate this.
You want to look for one of the following UVA indicators:
The highest PPD – Persistent Pigment Darkening
A Protective grade of sunscreen levelled as PA, PA++, PA+++ with the more plus sign the more protection from UVA rays.
The highest Boots star rating
UVA symbol is shown on SPF’s that has been proven to provide at least a third of its protection against UVA.
WILL I STILL GET VITAMIN D IF I WEAR SPF?
Vitamin D is produced via the skin through exposure to the sun, it’s needed to absorb calcium and prevents bone diseases.
However, evidence points towards sunscreen not making much of a difference when it comes to vitamin D production, this is due to any area of your body not covered in SPF, these areas will produce Vitamin D when you’re exposed to the sun.
DO I STILL WEAR SPF IF I'M NOT OUTSIDE?
Yes. Sun penetrates, glass, water, the car window… anywhere that has daylight! Unless you literally are in a dark room, not by a window all day!
WHAT THINGS SHOULD I CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING AN SPF?
I think there are two questions to ask yourself when looking at sunscreens.
1. Is it protective enough for what you are doing?
It may be worth getting a wardrobe of SPF’s depending on what you are doing.
Daily use all year round.
Wearing under makeup when you will find it harder to reapply, but you need longer lasting protection.
Water resistant for exercising or on holiday; still be prepared to reapply every 2 hours.
Children at school when you know they can’t reapply themselves and the teachers are unable to, there is a place for ‘once a day’ SPF’s here.
2. Do you like wearing it?
You are less likely to use it and therefore less likely to have protection if you don’t like the smell, texture and feeling of it. This comes down to personal preference.
TOP TIP: If you have a face sun cream that hasn’t agreed with your face, don’t waste it, use it up on your body instead!
Don’t upset the skin by having anything unnecessary in the formula like fragrance or mica (light reflective) particles. If you want fragrance wear perfume, just not on the skin!
For oily skin go for an oil free SPF and please don’t use the sun to ‘dry’ out your spots, it has a temporary drying effect, but actually long term makes it worse.
HOW MUCH SPF SHOULD I WEAR FOR ADEQUATE PROTECTION?
So, you have the right suncscreen, you have looked at the ingredients and UVA ratings but how much would you need to apply to get the stated level of protection.
Science says: 2mg per square metre
What this looks like:
Two finger lengths for your face and neck.
An extra finger length if you are bald.
1 to 2 teaspoons for each arm.
2 teaspoons for each leg
2 teaspoons for the chest
2 teaspoons for the back
This also depends on how little or big each body part is, but this gives you a general guide. A lot of people generally use too little to get the level of protection you would need and that’s stated on your sunscreen.
When applying SPF do it evenly and let it dry, don’t rub it into the skin.
REMEMBER that SPF does not accumulate so, don’t think you can add up the SPF if you are wearing it in your moisturiser, SPF and makeup- its only as high as the highest factor you have put on!
As a general rule, you will need to reapply your sunscreen every 2 hours as most sunscreens become less effective over time this can by due to sweat and natural skin oils moving it around, the atmosphere and rubbing against things; this can create tiny gaps in your SPF, that UV rays can get through.
There is evidence with some sunscreens that they can last longer.
I know its difficult if you are wearing makeup, but it you want to be truly protected you still need to reapply. Maybe on days like this and you are wearing makeup a water resistant or once a day product may be better in this situation. However, I wouldn’t do this every day.
WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO HELP PROTECT MYSELF FROM THE SUN?
Wear a floppy wide brimmed hat.
Wear loose cool fitting clothing.
Avoid mid-day sun.
Make sunbathing a thing of the past!
Sit in the shade or under an umbrella.
Wear big sunglasses to protect the delicate eye area.
PLEASE REMEMBER...
There’s no point in investing in great skincare if you are not wearing an SPF. If you’re not wearing SPF, it means your skincare products must work harder to get results.
Wearing an SPF is imperative if you are using any ingredients in your skincare that can make your skin sensitive to the sun, like AHA’s and Retinol.
Prevention is better than cure! Exposure to UV rays will age your skin and contribute to uneven pigmentation.
Studies have shown that skin texture, clarity and pigmentation can improve just by wearing SPF as you then allow it the ability to repair itself.
It’s a good idea to use a water-resistant sunscreen if you are going in the water (yes sun rays still penetrate the pool and the sea!)
Use a separate SPF to your moisturiser and make-up. To get the level of protection you need it’s not enough to have a moisturiser with an SPF, nor to have it just in your foundation. This comes down to the amount you would need to apply to get the stated level of protection. Please don’t use powder with SPF as protection you would need to have such a thick dusting to get anywhere near the level of protection you would need.